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Product Description:
10-megapixel CMOS image sensor for superior low-light performance and photo-quality, poster-sized printsFujinon 30x (24-720mm equivalent) manual optical zoom lens; 24-720mm (equivalent on a 35mm camera) range from true wide-angle to ultra telephotoHD movie mode with stereo sound; mini HDMI outputTriple Image Stabilization; 'Super Intelligent' Flash3.0-inch High-Contrast Tilting LCD and Electronic View Finder
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Fujifilm FinePix HS10 10 MP CMOS Digital Camera with 30x Wide Angle Optical Zoom and 3-Inch LCD
Fujifilm FinePix HS10 - 10MP BSI CMOS, Fujinon 30x Wide Optical Zoom (24 - 720mm), 3.0" High Contrast Tilting LCD. Other features include: Face Detection w/ Red Eye Removal, Face Recognition, Tracking Auto Focus, Triple Image Stabilization, Full Resolution Continuous Shooting @ 10fps, High Sensitivity 6400 ISO, 6 Scene - SR Auto Automatic Scene Recognition, HD Movie 1080i w/Stereo Sound, Super High Speed Movie Mode Captures 1000fps, Motion Panorama Mode, Motion Removal Mode, Multi-Motion Capture, 4-AA Batteries.
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Manufacturer: FUJIFILM
Model No: HS10
Dimensions: 3.9 x 5.5 x 6.7 inches. 2 pounds.
Customer Reviews
 Comparing Apples to Apples
It took me almost two weeks of researching and running over to the camera stores to check out different models before I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the HS 10.
The first thing people need to realize is that this is not a DSLR. It is a point and shoot, but the look and feel of the camera makes one quickly think that it is more than it really is. It is heavier than most models in its class. It feels solid in the hand and is well designed as far as controls and button locations. I have larger than average hands and found the HS 10 by far the easiest to hold.
This camera is capable of incredible shots at most any range. The manual focus is a real plus. While the camera has what seems like endless automatic shooting options, I find it works best in the C (custom) mode with good to bright light and the Night Tripod mode in low to very little light. I have taken shots outside at midnight with nothing more than the light from a window in my front yard with unbelievable results. I even took a shot of the Big Dipper that came out very well. And no flash in the world is going to reach the Big Dipper, LOL. Bottom line, the low light capabilities of this camera are fantastic.
Now for that monster zoom. You won't believe it. At the time of purchase there were only two cameras offering this big time zoom ability. The other being the Olympus SP-800uz. That is a fine camera also, but the two share very little in common other than the zoom and can't really be compared. I liken this zoom to a car that goes 200 mph. You may not need it all the time, but it's nice to know you can if the need arises. The auto focus can be a bit problematic at full extension, but once you learn the nuances of the thing those problems are greatly reduced.
I've read many a review talking about the slow write speed of this camera and they are correct, it is a bit slow, but I would argue that if you have done your research before hand you would have known this going in and it shouldn't be a surprise. There are trade offs with all of these products and models. Slow write speed vs mega zoom vs lightweight vs specific options and so on. IMHO you should not let the slow speed scare you off unless you are doing professional sports shooting or something similar in which case you should not be using a point and shoot in the first place.
PROS:
NICE FEEL IN THE HAND. Heavy (comparatively), well balanced and well laid out.
MANUAL ZOOM. I love the control this features allows and the fact that manual zoom means less battery drain.
AA BATTERIES. Buy decent batteries and use a card reader or AC adapter and battery life is a non-issue. Battery availability and recharging is an unnecessary hassle that AA completely alleviates.
OPTIONAL SETTINGS. Fairly easy to learn the different auto settings and how well they do under different conditions. Some are much better than others so this requires a bit of playing around to figure out what works for you.
TILT SCREEN. If you are looking at multiple cameras and have basically decided what you want and are trying to figure what might tip the scale one way or the other, this feature alone makes this camera a great choice. Doesn't have the pixels of most cameras in this class, but is the only one with the tilt feature at this price. I can't say enough about this and how much it comes into play. Especially when attached to a tripod. No more bending over or standing on tip toe.
CONS:
I really have but one complaint concerning this camera. The on/off switch is a bit difficult to turn off. It's easy to switch on, but for some reason I have a hard time going the other direction to turn it off. Irritating, yes but not a reason to dismiss this camera.
I know this is a bit long and if you made it all the way through I hope it was at least a little helpful. This is a great camera, extremely versatile and simply a pleasure to use. Once you see it you will understand why folks compare it to a DSLR but please remember that it is not. I consider it the 'missing link' between the point and shoots and the DSLR's of the world and highly recommend it to anyone interested in getting just a bit more from their camera without the hassle of carrying multiple lenses.
I am not an expert, this is just an end user comment...
I am not an expert and I use mostly auto, SRauto, adv1 and adv2 mode. After testing it few days and compare it with my Samsung i6 compact camera (yes, it is cheap and old), here is what I found initially. The raw mode produces excellent outdoor image but poor indoor image (I guess it needs a lot of light and steady hands). The jpg is below average for outdoor and is very below average for indoor; its jpg processing adds a lot of noise!!! I took the indoor pictures with windows open in day light and with flash on. All jpg pictures are soft (very soft). It should not happen to a company with so much experience in camera. It is like a Ferrari car with a bad driver. However, its macro mode is excellent. When zooming to max. (even to a small object), the result is above average too. My Samsung drops its IQ a lot when it zooms to its optical max.
I contacted Fujifilm and they told me that Samsung camera is able to set ISO down to 50 for my pictures and with less exposure time comparing with the same pictures I took with HS10. Since HS10 used longer exposure time, my hands were not steady enough to prevent shaking. This is why all my indoor pictures are soft. Samsung i6 has a slightly bigger sensor too. Usually, only the expensive cameras use bigger sensor.
He told me to use the "P" mode and adjust the focus and sharpness. I experimented a few settings and now the pictures IQ are closer to the Samsung (still has more noise than Samsung). Here is my setting:
= Mode: P
= ISO: 100 (I wish I can set it to 50)
= Sharpness: Hard
= Tone: Soft (it reduces half of the noise)
= Color: Hard (color is too light even at "hard", need to change white balance)
= WB Fine Tune: +1 (R) , +2 (B)
= When zooming to far object, I always set it to macro mode (not super macro)
= Focus: Center. Always focus subject at center of the frame, press half of the button, compose the picture, then press the button fully.
= Face detection: It works most of the time, but not all the time. I prefer not to use this feature. I use the above technique to focus a person's face before composing the picture.
It means that I can't use most of the features on this camera (like the auto, SRauto, SP1, SP2, and adv) with good result for now.
But I still decided to keep HS10 because of the following reasons:
0) Use AA battery! No more special charger! But I do have a 15 minutes quick charger for my 2000mAh NiMH AA batteries. I will carry one extra set with me all the time. If I don't buy HS10, I would buy Canon SX20IS, it uses AA batteries too with hot shoes.
1) To get a manual zoom len with this wide angle and zoom range, I need to pay for a real DSLR camera. And I need to carry two or three lens!! Too cumbersome for me now.
2) It would cost much more to do item 1 above. Not wise to do at this economy with less job security.
3) Once I tried the HS10 manual zoom len, I fell in love with it. It brings me back my old memory before the invention of digital camera. I used to own the 35mm cameras with manual zoom lens many years ago. It is harder to do a smooth zoom with video, but I don't take video that much with a camera.
4) The pictures IQ with the above "P" mode setting are "closer" to my Samsung i6 now. HS10 still has more noise but I can reduce it with software, printer, or printer driver. Also hope the future firmware can "fix" it.
5) Raw pictures are very nice if you don't mind the 15MB size.
6) Write time is fast now for jpg pictures after I do the following:
- turned off red eye removal
- say "No" to all save org. image items
- say "No" to Image display option
- only take 2 to 4 mega pixel pictures. I only print 4x6 pictures, I don't need more than 2 mega pixel. 4+ mega pixel picture is just wasting disk space and take more time to write.
- also using a class 10 SDHC card (only $19.95 from Amazon with 5 items gift!)
7) Hot shoe! There are not many cameras in this price range with hot shoe. It is needed for taking group pictures! And I don't like those slave flash, they don't always work.
Someone said the "raw+jpg" mode gives better JPG pictures, but it is taking too long to write 15MB raw files and I hate to waste space.
I am also using the "Zeikos ZE-FLK58 58mm Multi-Coated 3 Piece Filter Kit (UV-CPL-FLD)" with HS10. Only $7.99 from Amazon !! All glasses. I don't see any difference in picture IQ when using the UV filter. No issue with focusing too. This is important to protect the big zoom lens. The CPL filter also works well.
Now I just need an external flash for this camera. Any good suggestion to match this camera ?
Thanks for those who replied me in the comment page. I posted the reply from Fujifilm in the comment page too.
Keep shooting .....
good camera - but autofocus is messed up
Bottom line - this is a GREAT camera, but the autofocus takes time and missed the mark often, which is very annoying and my biggest gripe with it.
I guess it isn't fair to complain about it too much, because I am taking pictures in low light where this is especially a problem and with other cameras I wouldn't be able to do this at all... it's still annoying though.
The Best!
Not a camera expert.............................. but its the best I've ever owned. Does everything I want it to do and does it well. After all is said and done this baby gets the job done. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it. ;^)
This is NOT a DSLR, but it's pretty dang good
I've seen reviewers call this camera a mini-DSLR - it's not. It's a fixed-lens bridge camera with a small image sensor and a simply massive 30x OPTICAL zoom, period - there's no mirror to get out of the way as a DSLR would have nor interchangeable lenses. Now that the nomenclature is out of the way - it's a VERY GOOD bridge camera with excellent lens sharpness, vivid color reproduction and overall quite good image quality up to ISO 800 (which is very good for this category of camera). I've taken over 1400 hundred images with mine thus far, and have been extremely pleased with the unit overall. The image stabilization is surprisingly good (a necessity if you're fully racked out without a tripod!!) and I don't really have a quarrel with battery life, unlike many posters here; I've updated the camera with both firmware updates (one of which addressed the issue with the battery warning light coming on too soon) and I get about the same usage out of a set of Eneloops with this camera as I do with its predecessor, an Olympus Sp570UZ (also a very good bridge camera with a 20x zoom). Frankly I've never really counted the shots, but I did get something like 300+ images (many of which involved the onboard flash) in one afternoon's shoot before the battery light came on. You can usually get another 30-40 shots before the camera shuts down when that light kicks in.
What I like:
1) Obviously, the zoom. There are three focusing ranges - tele, macro, and supermacro, and if you find you can't focus in any of the modes you're probably out of the range for that mode. Simply switching modes can bring you into a decent focus area (although you may still have to "focus with your feet" a little bit depending on what you're shooting). The lens is pleasingly sharp throughout its range with well-controlled chromatic aberration - not a whole lot of "purple fringing" to be found here. I find the manual zoom to be quite smooth and easily controlled.
2) The control feature set. There are a number of mode presets or you can go fully manual where you choose the shutter and aperture - this is my preferred method but it has to be said that this camera's "auto" modes are pretty good. You have the full range of DSLR-style control modes - P, A, S, M along with quite a few varied scene modes (I was seriously impressed with the "fireworks" scene mode).
3). This lens is threaded - you can use 58mm filters easily. I use a circular polarizer frequently. It can even do some basic infrared photography with an inexpensive IR filter attached - it's not the best camera for that application but it is indeed capable.
4). Weight and handling. It's a fairly hefty camera (all that glass has to go somewhere) but it's well balanced and though I have small hands I have no problem with it. The battery well forms a nicely-shaped handgrip and the HS10 feels quite good to shoot.
5). Unlike a lot of reviewers, I LIKE the fact that the camera takes AA's - being able to run into the 7/11 and grab a set of alkalines has saved my bacon in the past with a couple of cameras when I've been too dense to recharge the spares!
6) Noise doesn't become a serious issue until you get past ISO 800; up to that point, most images are very good or at the most can be "tweaked" lightly with a quick run through of your favorite noise reduction software (I use Adobe Lightroom 3 which has FANTASTIC n/r).
7) The supermacro mode is excellent. You can get as close as one centimeter to your subject without any additional lenses. I have a Raynox DCR250 that I can use with this camera if I wish to get even closer, but out of the box the Fuji's macro range is impressive.
8) The onboard flash is actually quite good; this camera boasts an "Intelligent Flash" system which actually does reasonably well at controlling blowouts and makes for an excellent fill flash mode. There is a hot shoe as well - while there is no dedicated flash available for this model, one flash that can be used is the older Vivitar 2800D (NOTE THE "D"!!!) which is pretty easy to come by on eBay and works very well with this camera. Do NOT buy the 2800 Vivitar - its trigger voltage is too high, you'll fry the camera. Be sure to get the D designation.
9) Menus are intuitive and very complete - there's a setting for nearly everything you can think of including white balance adjustments.
The few things I don't like:
1) For a bridge camera that uses an LCD/EVF viewfinder system, it's not really a "live view"; what you see in the viewfinders isn't necessarily what your finished image will be. If you've severely underexposed it, for example, there's a "light meter" gauge in the bottom right of the screen that you'll need to train yourself to watch because the view you're looking at won't generally reflect the true scene as the camera will see it. Coming from a Panasonic FZ28 and an Olympus SP570, both of which DO show you what your image will look like, this took a while to get used to.
2) Come on, Fuji - a printed manual would be nice. What ships with the camera is essentially a pamphlet that doesn't even begin to cover the model's functions. I printed it out from the PDF on the CD and got it bound myself.
3) This camera's "low light" capability is a bit overrated, though that shouldn't be a surprise, given how much glass the light has to get through - for most indoor shots (especially if there's kids or pets) you will need that flash. The Pro Low Light mode works if there's no moving objects in the scene - it won't do you a bit of good if you're trying to photograph your child bouncing on the bed, for example.
Overall, this camera is a great model for learning how to shoot manually or just as a "grab it in Auto mode and start shooting". It's not perfect, but it's close enough for the type of shooting I do. I don't use it for video, nor do I shoot RAW, and I don't shoot action/sports venues, so I can't speak to its qualities in those areas.
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